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Wednesday 26 June 2013

Down in Cornwall

We're here for a couple of weeks and there is just so much to say about this area. It is quieter down here, though that is relative as there is still a village every few miles and country lanes heading off in every direction, hence any trip seems to take forever. Also, we've only had tantalising glimpses of the countryside - it is very hard to see much over the hedges from the sunken lanes!

We've had one trip not to the coast, and that was to see Roche Rock, a stone ruin perched on the top of a large rock. There are iron ladders that enable you to get up into the ruin and appreciate the view and the inaccessibility of the site, though there is little to indicate it was at all comfortable. Plenty of crows flying around to add atmosphere.





All our remaining sightseeing trips have been to the delightful coastal villages. Generally these involve finding a carpark on the outskirts of the village and strolling down through the old alleyways, looking at the very old buildings and going oooh-ahh!
And then there are the harbours themselves, often with the boats high and dry waiting for the next tide to come in. Luckily (?) the weather hasn't been too good so there aren't many tourists around yet, otherwise these places would be swamped.




Polperro would be our current favourite and this is where these photos are from. For more photos of here and other parts of Cornwall don't forget to look at the "Photo Gallery" link at the top of this site.

Friday 21 June 2013

When you're having fun

Time flies ... and we're well overdue for an update.

Since our first trip to London we've had eleven days of experiences!  I won't give you a day-by-day breakdown of what we've been up to but I'll cover my memories and experiences of those days, in no particular order.

After our first trip to London we moved to Reading to stay with Nigel's niece, Charissa, while Janos and Gail moved to Cornwall.  Charissa's flat is in Caversham, across the river from the main town and the railway - a trip we made on foot several times.  Reading's not the most beautiful of English towns, but it was a good location for catching the train into London one day, Oxford another, and to Wokingham one evening to enjoy dinner with an ex-workmate from HP days - Ron Wilson - and his delightful teenagers, Emma and Seb.

After a few days with Charissa we moved to Petersfield to stay with an old friend and cycle touring buddy of Nigel's, Tim, and his wife Linda. As it was over the weekend, they took us touring around the countryside. Once we'd seen the planned sights I referred to tiki-touring and Linda asked me what I meant. My explanation was pretty much right, but here's the 'official' version from Urban Dictionary :


(New Zealand slang)
1. a sight-seeing journey with no particular destination in mind.
2. taking the scenic route to a destination.
3. to wander aimlessly.

With Reggie (a VERY well-behaved golden labrador) in tow, Tim and Linda took us on a three hour stroll along back roads, across fields and up and over hills. Our walk was on what is called the Hangers Way.  Yes - no apostrophe - nothing to do with a rope - in old English it means a steeply wooded slope, which is an accurate description of some of the parts we traversed!  We were impressed with Hampshire.  It was more hilly than Berkshire.  Still lots of little winding roads and picture-postcard villages and farms. And there is the sea, where we got blasted by the wind (much stronger than the typical Easterly in Christchurch).  I do like the sea. 

Oxford is stunning.  We walked a couple of laps of the town's streets, exploring little alleyways and climbing the University Church of St Mary the Virgin tower to get uninterrupted views of the city. There's an old, indoor market where you can look through large windows to watch bakers, butchers, cake decorators and picture framers work their magic. Towards the end of the afternoon we found the Ashmolean Museum.  I'll admit I'm not a great one for museums, and this one was no different. I browse the exhibits, taking a closer look at occasional items that catch my eye. Tension, or something, builds inside me and by the time I've done a lap I'm itching to get out.  Nigel's the opposite.  He would have happily spent all day in there, reading every word. Which means he missed seeing many of the exhibits I saw, but no doubt he enjoyed the experience a whole lot more, gained more from the experience, and is itching to get back in there!

On our second trip to London we hit the back streets of Marylebone to search for where my great-great-grandparents married and lived before moving to New Zealand.  We found the area, but streets have been removed, renamed, and rebuilt.  It's an area that was badly hit by bombing and where stone houses may once have stood there is now a less attractive 1960s housing estate.  But the village squares are still there, with tall old oak trees, with at least one resident squirrel.  By accident we found the street that held the church where they were married, but no church.  We investigated another church around the corner and were greeted by an elderly 'caretaker' who was able to tell me that the other church had been taken apart, brick-by-brick, around 1900 and it was rebuilt in north London somewhere.  I haven't yet gone hunting for it.
We walked down Oxford Street; visited one of Nigel's favourite stores (Liberty) where they happened to have a sale on - at 30% off, the £120 scarf I looked at was no doubt a bargain, but unfortunately my bags are already full!   The Leadenhall covered market was a beautiful eye-opener, but as we wandered out the back I found my first reason to pull my camera from my bag - the Lloyd's of London building.

The monument to the great fire of London provides a magnificent 360 degree view of London .... after you've scaled it's spiral staircase of 311 steps!  It was windy and cold at the top, but very worthwhile.  And with a '2 for 1' deal courtesy of the off-peak train to London, it was only £3 for us - and we were given a certificate to prove we'd made it! :-)

From Petersfield we took trains to Cornwall, from where I am writing this blog entry.

I have a few random thoughts and observations to add:
  • trains move quietly and FAST!  I got a hell of a shock when a train past straight through a station we were waiting at - it was gone in a second! Same goes when two trains pass in opposite directions.
  • anywhere there are people, there are smokers - except for restaurants, malls and tube and train stations, where the 'no smoking' signs are usually obeyed.  Many people = many smokers = streets and gutters filled with cigarette butts = polluted air.  I suspect this is something I'm simply going to have to get used to, darn it.
  • dogs on trains and in pubs.  Seems strange to me, but so far they've all been well-behaved.
  • my first experience of Paddington Station and then the underground in London was a blur...an excited and happy blur.  I'm sure my jaw must have dropped as I stepped out of the train from Twyford!  I could have spent ages in the station with my camera in hand - It's a marvellous place. But we were on a mission so I just tagged along as Gail, Janos and Nigel navigated our way between stations and led the dash through tunnels and stairwells to change lines.  When Nigel and I returned for our second trip to London I got my head around the maps and think I could probably navigate it all myself without too much stress - it's such a great system.
  • when we first arrived Gail and Janos said we wouldn't see blue skies like we see at home.  There's dust and pollution from Europe in the air which always softens the blue colour of the sky.  On the rare occasion we've seen blue sky I've found no reason to disagree with their comment!
  • it pays to investigate travel options. Travel here is expensive so it's worth getting any discount you can. Travelling off-peak is cheaper.  A return ticket can cost just a tiny amount more than one way (a single).  Buying a ticket to part way of your trip then buying the on-going leg can be cheaper than buying a ticket to take you the whole way, but make sure you have plenty of time to get the on-going ticket.  Train travel is very comfortable, if you can get a seat.
  • Nigel's always moaned about our ugly barbed wire fences at home, in comparison to the lovely hedges here.  I've delighted in pointing out the occasional barbed wire fence here, but I'll admit they're not common. However, the hedges do have a downside .... you can't see through them!  From a car you often have no view other than the narrow stretch of road in front of you and you end up with a stiff neck from your head swinging from left to right, trying to catch views where there are small gaps in hedges!
  • having family and friends here has made a huge difference to our enjoyment of our time here and to the type of experiences we've had and we'll be forever grateful to Gail and Janos, Charissa, Ron, and Tim and Linda for their generosity and kindness. 
  • you can never take too little with you when you travel ie. you can always buy stuff, assuming you have the money!  Knowing we were travelling for at least seven months, through a European summer and winter, we brought what we thought was 'enough'.  We wanted to be prepared.  We didn't want to leave behind perfectly good items (like a down jacket, for instance) that we knew we would need while here.  I ordered a few small 'necessities' from Amazon before we arrived, which we picked up in Reading - camera remote controls, spare battery and flexible drawing pad - all necessities! :-)  And now we don't know how we're going to fit everything in when we head to Italy.  We suspect some things will be abandoned at Charissa's flat in Reading, but those things will not include any of the technology!  I think perhaps our travelling gear-list could become an interesting topic of conversation for another blog entry. :-) 
Anyway, a day has flown by since I started writing this, so I'll leave Cornwall for our next update, which will be soon!  It's such a wonderful place!!

And here's a look at Oxford Circus on a quiet day, taken in a rush before the lights turned green again ... [it'll take a while to download so when it starts playing hit pause until it is fully downloaded, then play]



Monday 17 June 2013

London calling!

One of the world's great cities indeed, even for one who has spent many years living here in the past. It was interesting seeing it again with fresh eyes and I was duly impressed. Again. Little seems to have changed in the last 20 years or so, until you realise it is a lot cleaner now, mainly due to the spruce up it got for the Olympics, and from the reduced volume of traffic. Still plenty of buses and taxis, but fewer private cars since the congestion charges have some in. And quite a few new buildings too: the Gerkin, the Shard, the London Eye, and the “Harry Potter” bridge.

London is still an easy place to walk around as long as you don’t try and see everything in one day. Always lots going on and, as it was a Saturday, mainly tourists around. Not sure if it was a highlight, but a traffic jam caused by 1,000 naked cyclists added to the entertainment!

What struck me most is the sheer number of very large and impressive stone buildings. Not necessarily tall, but often taking up complete blocks with courtyards in the middle. Mostly dating from the 19th century or earlier and all very attractive. Very few of the modern buildings seem to have had anything spent on “extras” – those adornments that take them beyond the  purely functional. So, for those of you who have visited London before, what are your enduring memories? Let us all know in the Comments below!

Wednesday 12 June 2013

The first two days

We used the homeopathic remedy 'no more jet lag' to reduce the effect of jet lag and when we arrived at Heathrow in the late afternoon we managed to eat a light dinner, go for a stroll and stay awake until about 9pm and then slept most of the night,  though we did wake a little early - 4am. But after a couple of days we were pretty much back to normal.

Nigel's sister, Gail, and her husband, Janos, have been working on a large estate near Reading for the past three years.  When I say large I mean 2800 acres!  Most of it is leased out, but it is a substantial property, especially so close to London.  The 'house' is a few miles from Twyford.  Gail and Janos live in a small flat within the house.  Walking through the gardens on our first evening I suggested it was like having your own Hagley Park, but I later revised that to a Mona Vale within Hagley Park, though the Mona Vale homestead is much smaller than this little house.

But Janos and Gail resigned from there a month ago and are off to Cornwall, where we'll join them once they've settled in.  They wanted us to see as much of the local area as possible, so kindly took us on two days of chauffeured touring of local and not-quite-so-local villages and sites.

In those two days we drank cider in the 'Vicar of Dibley' village, Turville; wandered the banks of the Thames at Henley-on-Thames; sauntered through the tiny village of Hambleden; enjoyed the solitude of Weylands Smithy; marvelled at the standing stone circle that surrounds the village of Avebury; delighted in the quaint buildings in Marlborough; saw squirrels, alive and deceased, and [sadly] a dead badger; learned that Boots [chemists] sell pre-packaged lunch deals very cheaply; that good coffee is available outside New Zealand; you would have to be bonkers to be a cyclist over here (the roads are so narrow); walking along riverbank tracks means constantly watching your footing to avoid all the bird droppings; despite the huge population in such a small country there's a surprising amount of greenery here; and that if you avoid the rush hour(s) traffic isn't too big a problem.

On Saturday we went to London and I'll leave that story to Nigel.

Saturday 8 June 2013

The long flight

31 hours after leaving a wet, cold and dark Christchurch we arrived in a hot and sunny England. Saying goodbye is always hard when you have no idea when you will see you friends and family again. A big thank you to our good friends Kerry and Dave who put us up for the last couple of weeks. And farewell to Vicki's son Andrew and my daughter Izzie who saw us off at the airport. Tears were suppressed - but only just!

Once aboard the plane we could relax and reflect how lucky we were. Our two biggest - and hence most difficult - possessions left to get rid of were my bicycle and our remaining car. After being offered several "low-ball" values for our car we weren't expecting to get much for it, but on the Friday before leaving we got a good offer, nothing like what we had hoped for, but probably realistic and a great weight off our minds. And then my cycle went the day after and we were down to to just what we were to travel with plus a few leftovers which Vicki's parents duly extracted from us.

Night flying is always the best option if there isn't much to look at and you can get some sleep. New Zealand to Hong Kong fills the first criteria and as the plane wasn't full we managed to bag a row of three seats each so we could at least be horizontal for much of the trip. So we were lucky to get to Hong Kong in what felt a short time and still feeling pretty good.


Hong Kong to Heathrow was the opposite experience, covering really interesting ground (across China, Mongolia and Russia) in the daylight, but we were in the middle rows without a view! Experiencing the full 12 hours awake made for a lengthy trip. The best part was that Cathy Pacific have a video camera under the aircraft looking forward so you can watch where you are going. Really interesting at take-off and landing.

We were so lucky at Heathrow, I got through immigration in about 2 minutes flat, only a couple of people in front in the electronic passport queue. Vicki had a longer wait in the foreign plebs queue, but that gave me time to get the bags and we marched out to be picked up by my sister and brother-in-law Gail and Janos. Then we were driven through the traffic to their grand residence near Reading (more about that later!). Despite the continual bad press, the weather was hot and sunny (well, over 20C). A great welcome!