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Sunday, 29 June 2014

Life in an English city, part 2




Summer is here and the next part of our adventure begins, so the frequency of posts on this blog will increase! Firstly though, it is time for a recap of recent events in England. As we moved into spring we had more outings, mainly due to meeting up with a network of ex-pat Kiwis, many who are based in this region. Most are in their 50s and 60s and working and living on large estates.

Christine and Vicki in the fireplace ...
We firstly met up with Tony and Christine (who coordinates this network) and they kindly took us for a tour around Oxfordshire, with a stop at one of those ancient pubs that is so small that Vicki and Christine had to sit in the fireplace. Then off to dinner at their lovely cottage on an estate in a very pretty village. A good day out indeed, and a chance to socialise after a fairly quiet period by ourselves.

Our next outing was with Alain and Anne who live at an exclusive private school where Anne is a matron of one of the boarding houses. Almost the entire village is now part of the school as the facilities are so extensive. There is even a pub for the older school students!

Our third visit was for a BBQ with a dozen of this network at one of their homes – that is, a very large home belonging to the estate owner. Once again plenty of glorious food, good NZ wine and great company. And a brilliant hot day which has been a rarity of late.

These trips out have been a good opportunity to see the local countryside, which we have only otherwise seen from train or local bus windows. We have had a go at cycling around the area but our bikes are really uncomfortable so we are disinclined to venture further. Pity though as the lanes are very pretty, except for the excess of cars. So our solution has been to hire a car.

Starting the climb at Caen Hill
We had a big day out with Izzie when we drove down to Salisbury and had a look around the cathedral there. Big, old and very interesting, including seeing a copy of the Magna Carta. Some interesting medieval buildings around too but we had to race off to get to Stonehenge. These days you have to book a time-slot in which to arrive so they can even out the influx of tourists. A brand new visitor centre has been built with a bus to take you to the actual site. Though you can only walk around the periphery of the stones – along with hundreds of others - you can see them very well. Next stop was the Wiltshire town of Devizes and the amazing sequence of locks on the canal nearby at Caen Hill. Twenty-nine locks in a row to get the boats uphill, or down, can take the best part of a day to get through. We continued on our way to Bradford on Avon, a very pretty town that looks like a mini-Bath. Highly recommended. So, with a final stop for a walk around the standing stones at Avebury, we toddled home.

Standing stones at Avebury
At Bradford on Avon







Our next big day out was taking the train to Bath and meeting up with my sister Gail and brother-in-law Janos for a drive around the area. Bath is as beautiful as its numerous tourists would imply. The warm stone is attractive even on a damp morning, and there are lots of little alleyways and shops to explore. We drove onto Wells which is a charming market town and famous as my birthplace. We were lucky enough to see the inauguration of the new bishop, which unfortunately meant the cathedral was closed. Wells has a beautiful “Bishop’s Palace” (no wonder he was smiling a lot) which looks more like a castle surrounded by a moat. It also has a 14th C street (supposedly the oldest continuously inhabited residential street in Europe).  Luckily, after a drive through the local villages we returned for dinner and a look through the re-opened cathedral.
The moat at Bishop's Palace - Wells

Royal Crescent - Bath
Vicars in 14th century Vicars Close - Wells


Blenheim Palace
Blenheim Palace
We made one further excursion and that was to the Cotswolds courtesy of Brian Lee, the programme director at the Witney Photo Group. Some time ago Vicki had a couple of her images accepted in the Cheltenham International Photo salon. She found that the nearest place the exhibition of the winning entries would be displayed was at Witney, so emailed them to find out the details. Brian kindly offered to spend the day with us prior to the show and duly did so, starting with a visit to the grounds of Blenheim Palace, then a meander through the Cotswolds for lunch at Bourton-on-the-Water.  An idyllic stone village only spoilt by the throngs of tourists. We were treated to a quick ride around the outskirts of the village in Brian’s Aston Martin DB9 (!) followed by the presentation of the winning images from the competition at the Photo Club evening. They kindly included Vicki’s accepted entries so there was a big round of applause. Another wonderful day out due to the generosity of Brian – thank you!



Poppy field in the Cotswolds

Leaving Reading was difficult for me as I was leaving my daughter Izzie who had to find a job and somewhere to live. It was also a little sad leaving the two cats that Vicki had become very attached to (ok, so maybe I will miss them too!). But it was a relief to start the next stage of our journey after a long hiatus.
We spent four nights with our friends Tim and Linda down in Petersfield where we traded some gardening work for wonderful food and great company. Again sad to say goodbye but we know we’ll be catching up with them again, partly due to leaving a huge bag of our overflow in their loft!

Our final day in England started with a delightful rail journey through the English countryside down to Southampton airport and the flight to Nantes in France ….

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

An ordinary life?

... not exactly ordinary, but certainly settled compared with the previous phase of our ‘adventure’.

There’s a reason why you haven’t seen much of us on here …. There hasn’t really been a lot to say!!  Having said that, we have been out and about quite a bit and we’ve made further plans for the year, so here’s a bit of an update.

As Nigel indicated in his February post, Reading is only a half hour on the fast train to London.  We usually manage a trip into London, or somewhere, each week.  On at least half of those trips to London I’ve spent a few hours at the Westminster Archives Centre, furthering research into my family history.  It’s been quite special to find records of where my ancestors lived then to go and wander off through the back streets of Westminster to find the street.  A couple of my ‘wrinklies’, as I call my ancestors, got married in St Margarets, at Westminster, where the likes of Winston Churchill married.  Unfortunately, I don’t think that’s any indication that they were famous or wealthy, but it was quite neat to step inside and know they’d been there too, nearly 200 years ago.


My preference for family history research has left Nigel to enjoy hours, reading every word, in various museums and galleries. The first time we separated in London to do this was a bit traumatic for me …. My first time on the tube (underground) on my own – but I only needed to be rescued once – another tube traveller pointed me in the right direction as I turned in circles trying to understand where I was supposed to catch the next connection.  It’s still a bit daunting sometimes to work out how to get to where you want to go, but so far, so good.  Travelling on the buses provides a better view, especially if you can get the coveted front seats upstairs in a double-decker, but when you don’t know the names of the destinations and their routes it’s pretty hard to work out which bus you need.  Travelling with Nigel it’s so much easier (he lived in London for years) – as long as I can keep up.  On one trip we dashed down some stairs to hop on the tube and as he raced through the doors ahead of me, they closed!  I waved goodbye and turned around to work out what to do next.  The next thing Nigel’s telling me to get on – the staff on the platform must have seen me and opened the doors again to let me in.

One of Nigel’s daughters, Izzie, arrived here a month ago for her own ‘up-over’ adventure.  Luckily for her we have a spare bedroom so she’s been staying with us since she arrived.  Izzie’s as impressed with Reading as we are, but with her cousins living here it’s a convenient place for her to live and work.  As I write this she’s off to Morocco for a few days with her cousin, Stephanie.  They’ve even booked an overnight trip which includes travelling by camel.  Sounds fantastic!

We were in London a couple of weeks ago to see a show in the evening.  Unfortunately, our trip coincided with a tube strike.  Our train from Reading arrived at Paddington, as usual, but instead of most of the people then streaming down the steps to the underground, they were all walking out the doors to catch buses and taxis.  We were there mid-morning, and it was hopeless.  It must have been far worse earlier in the morning.  We quickly dismissed our original plan to catch the bus and we walked instead.  After visiting a couple of photographic galleries (anyone heard of Getty Images? J) went our separate ways and planned to meet at Hammersmith station late in the afternoon.  I left the archives centre, jumped on a bus that arrived at a perfect moment, which then got snarled up in traffic.  Two thirds of the way along the route the bus driver told everyone to get off – with no explanation – another passenger suggested the driver must have reached the end of her shift.  I started walking, and should have kept walking, but hopped on another bus, which got held up again. Meanwhile, on the other side of London, Nigel and Izzie had arrived at their bus stop and the electronic sign said two minutes until the bus arrived.  Then it said five minutes.  Then the sign went blank.  Forty-five minutes later the bus turned up, and got stuck in traffic.  Despite running for half an hour after they got off their bus, they were just five minutes too late for us to get into our show, but we were given priority tickets for the following week.

Which leads to my next ‘story’.  Walking the streets and entering most museums and galleries are free activities you can enjoy in London.  Another one is being in the audience for a TV show recording.  You have to apply for seats; they issue more tickets than they have seats because they have a lot of ‘no shows’; then you queue to get in.  If you miss out on getting in then you are offered priority tickets for another show, which is what happened to us.  I’d requested tickets for QI, Graham Norton, Top Gear and Alan Davies Untitled.  Many of you will recognise the first three.  The last is one of the comedians who regularly appears on QI with Stephen Fry.  He has a new show and we attended a recording.  It was an interesting experience.  We’ve learnt to not stand in the queue next to very large people.  If you’re standing next to someone in the queue, it’s quite possible you’ll be sitting next to them in the audience.  The audience seats are narrow.  As I went to sit down I noticed that only half my seat was available.  The other half was supporting a sizeable portion of my neighbour’s behind and thigh.  It was a bit uncomfortable.

On my first solo trip to the Westminster Archive Centre I was following my route from the tube station through the back streets of Westminster, using the map on my phone, when I discovered my planned route was blocked off by police and spectators.  I was checking out an alternative route when I noticed a black car leaving from another side street.  The car passed slowly, just a metre from me and deciding it must be someone important I looked into the back seat to see a little old lady in a hat with a slim old gentleman sitting next to her.  One of the spectators confirmed it was the Queen and Prince Phillip, and as my route was now clearing I continued on my way and saw Prince Edward standing at the door to a building.  I later found out that the Queen had been bestowing some awards.

Much of our spare time here has been spent building a couple of websites - one for one of our hosts from last year, www.villaitaliamarche.com, and the other for a group of photographers, www.agathering.co.nz, of which I'm a member.  Our host, Alex, has a large collection of books and DVDs - we haven't watched many DVD's but the books have had a lot of use. 


Bailey
Bentley
Another large part of our spare time is not really spare time - it's the one thing we live for! ;-)  Bentley and Bailey.  They're the Siamese cats we're looking after while Alex is away.  They are such characters - very talkative and demanding and entertaining.  Bentley loves being rubbed - he'll lay on the floor forever, being rubbed on his sides, on his tummy, under his legs (his leg-pits!), under his chin - and he never attacks.  He's never used his claws or teeth on us.  Bailey, however, has a thing about feet and has on a few occasions grabbed a foot and wrapped herself around it and kicked - all for fun, of course, but a bit uncomfortable for the foot.  Their favourite game is to run around after a long piece of string.  Bailey's particularly funny as if we set the string to travel in a small circle she'll follow it around and around, until she topples over from getting giddy.



Not long after we arrived here we were alerted to the external speaker on one of our neighbours’ phones, or perhaps it was a door bell.  Luckily it never sounded at night.  We assumed they must turn it off.  Anyway, it always sounded just a few notes and is uncannily similar to the Harry Potter movie theme, so I’ve been humming the theme on and off for three months.  Just another month to go!  Anyway, we were headed into town last week, walked up the road a little way and turned the corner just in time to see Gaz’s ice cream truck pull onto the side of the road, and sound his ‘I’m here, come and get me’ jingle.  We just looked at each other and laughed!  Now every time he rolls up and we hear the Harry Potter jingle we just smile.

Something that always amuses me is the view from our backdoor on calm, sunny mornings.  As long as there's no wind and a blue sky, you can look up and see the sky criss-crossed with jet trails!  At home we'll see one or two in the sky occasionally, but here, with Heathrow so nearby, it's common to see a dozen or more.


 
Something I noticed straight away here, and continue to notice, is the amount of litter.  At home they’ve pulled out most, if not all, the public rubbish bins in parks and on streets, except those next to shops.  We’re encouraged to take it home, and I think it’s fairly effective – not that I’m suggesting we don’t have litter.  But here there are rubbish bins everywhere.  We’re in a quiet, no-exit, tidy residential street of fairly nice and substantial homes, though many, like ‘ours’ have been converted into flats.  Ten metres from our door there is a rubbish bin perched on a lamp post.  Another twenty or thirty metres away, around the corner, there is another.  And yet there is also litter, though not so much on our street.  Creeks are choked with it.  Railway lines are lined by it.  It lies around in parks and forests.  Plastic bags flutter along streets.  Cans, bottles and takeaway wrappers are dumped anywhere and everywhere.

But it’s also very green here.  We always think of New Zealand as being green, but despite the huge population here there are paddocks and hedges and huge trees and forests seemingly everywhere.  Even the towns and cities have trees and parks poked into every little corner.  Huge apartment complexes will have parks and play areas – lots of green.  The country roads are very narrow and plant life (mainly what we would call weeds!) grows as close to the road as it dares.  They leave all this growth as protection for the wild life, of which there is much.  Deer, foxes, badgers, squirrels, hedgehogs (which are not considered a pest here), birds galore – there is space kept for them all.


When we arrived here our home owner, Alex, offered us the use of her push-bike so we considered buying a secondhand bike so we could get around on them.  We had particularly nice weather when we first arrived so it seemed like an excellent idea.  But wandering home one afternoon we decided to take a different route and came across a bike leaning against a fence with a sign saying 'FREE'.  According to the note, it was surplus to requirements and just needed a new tube.  We decided we were extremely lucky and pushed it off home.  We bought a repair kit and 99p ($2) later we were the proud owner of a pretty good bike - other than a bit of paint-fade it's in as-new condition.  Our first ride was up the road to the local canals.  The area was still recovering from the big floods and our route involved riding through a stream that was running along the gravel road, and wading through a less-fresh large puddle guarding the entrance to a foot bridge.  But it was nice to be out on bikes.  Our first 'big' ride was to Wargrave.  The trip was supposed to take 45 minutes, but it took us over an hour to get there.  Anyone who knows us will know we're not typically slow on bikes, and we were pretty fit at that stage having laboured our way through the summer and winter.  We were not looking forward to the ride home.  We'd discovered we were on two heavy bone-shakers with very uncomfortable seats.  The weather deteriorated after that so we forgot how terrible they were and went out on a second jaunt a couple of months later.  This time Nigel wrapped a towel around his seat, which helped, but was still bad enough for us to decide that our cycling in Reading days are over!

In July last year Mum and Dad decided they were going to come to Italy to see us, since we were having such a great time and they’ve never been to Europe.  Their timing wasn’t great as we’d just booked ourselves up for the rest of the year.  We also had to make sure they were there in spring or autumn as summer would be too hot.  Moving on several months, holiday dates were finally settled and Dad’s staying home and my sister is coming with Mum.  We’ll spend most of September and a few days in October with them.  Once the dates were decided we started planning the holiday and our other travels for the rest of the year, and a week ago we completed our plans, which is quite a relief!  When we finish here in mid-June we fly from Southampton to Nantes, France where we have two Helpx hosts keeping us occupied until the end of August.  Then we’ll fly from Paris to Nice and catch trains back to Taggia, where we return to the first host we had last year.  We’ll help Sue there for a few days, then she’s taking off on holiday with her sister for a couple of weeks, leaving us to take care of the house, garden and pool and to entertain Mum and Julie from there for two weeks.  Then we’ll head towards Florence then Rome, where Mum and Julie depart for home.  We’ll return to another of last year’s hosts, Pauline, to help her and a friend, Corrado, with their olive harvests.  In early November we’re ‘penciled in’ to head back to another of last year’s hosts, Tim, who is on the eastern coast of Italy.

Ideally we’d like to find a house/pet-sit for the European winter, somewhere in southern Italy or Spain where it stays quite warm, so we’re keeping our eyes open and fingers crossed.

I’d better stop rabbiting on now and get this posted – it’s already a week since I started writing!

Vicki

Monday, 24 February 2014

Life in an English city, part I

After a week living in Reading it is time for some initial thoughts. Whenever someone asks us where we live- and we reply “Reading” - they go “oh” in a very underwhelmed manner. All anyone can then say it that it is convenient for getting to places. By this they refer to it being on the main rail line to the West Country and Wales, half an hour from London, with good connections heading down south or north to Oxford. It is also on close to several motorways. When a city is best known for how easy it is to leave then it is time to look harder for the benefits. So far all I can say is that it is also convenient for other things too:
  • ·       It is a nice size, about 200,000 people, so it has good facilities.
  • ·       The main shopping street is car-free and there are two big malls.  All the usual British High Street chain stores are present. Sigh.
  • ·       The centre is only about 15 minutes’ walk from where we live and the train station is another 5 minutes.
  • ·       There is the Thames flowing through town – not quite literally though it must have been close recently. If it ever recedes then there is the promise of some walks along the banks of the river.



I’ve run out …. But surely as we spend more time here well find more highlights.

Friday, 21 February 2014

Rain and Pheasants

After being in England for a month it is time for a catch up. First up was a trip down to Cornwall to stay with my sister Gail and brother-in-law Janos near Lostwithiel. Having not won a lottery recently we looked into alternatives to rail travel. The only other option is a National Express bus which does work out quite a bit cheaper, if you don’t mind sitting for 5.5 hours on a motorway.  For some reason it is substantially cheaper to get a local bus to an out-of-the-way shopping centre to board the Express rather  than take it directly from the local railway/bus depot in the centre of town.

Staying in Cornwall may not have been that timely given the continuous storms that have been battering the coast for weeks. Luckily Cornwall is relatively hilly so it isn’t submerged like Somerset.  But it does have numerous seaside towns and these have been taking a hammering. Some of the better videos are here. We certainly found that most days were wet and windy.

On the good days – of which there were a few – we were taken out to visit some typical Cornish sites:

·       The Eden Project: an amazing site and home of the world’s largest indoor tropical rainforest! A great place to be on a cold and wet winter’s day.

Neolithic and historic remains. There are numerous standing stones, Celtic crosses and remains of settlements dotted around the countryside.


Up on Bodmin Moor: peaceful (if you excuse the wind) and very atmospheric. Beautiful rock formations, shaggy sheep, wild horses and Highland cattle.

Several nice seaside cafes including Rick Stein’s CafĂ© (not to be confused with Rick Stein’s Restaurant or Rick Stein’s Delicatessen)


The wide sandy beach at Rock, opposite Padstow. It could easily have been NZ except for the sheer number of people out walking dogs.
Could be NZ!


One of our highlights was taking part in a pheasant shoot here at the estate where Gail and Janos live and work. It was the last of the season and called the “Beaters’ Shoot” where roles are reversed: those who have been beaters get to shoot and v.v. Much more relaxed than normal as the “guns” weren’t paying big money to be there and under pressure to bag some birds. Our day started at 9am Cornish time, i.e. 10am, when we met the guns, fetchers (with dogs) and other beaters )(some with dogs) at the Shooting Lodge in the woods on the property. The estate was divided into several sections which were to be tackled one at a time. We headed off with the other beaters in old 4WDs to the first section, lined up, and then walked slowly banging our walking sticks trying to scare the pheasants up into the air. Every once in a while we would be startled when one made a dash out of hiding (it is easy to walk right past one and not see it). Someone would yell out so a shooter could have a go.

The woods are quite steep in places and very muddy and slippery with all the rain. Vicki ended up with a big bruise on her tailbone, I just got covered in mud. Luckily the dogs do most of the work running around so it is pretty easy as long as you don’t have to stand around too long as you can get very cold and wet. Once our first section was over we regrouped at the Lodge for a glass of port before tackling the next section. Lunch was then had – hot pasties from a local bakery and cakes, plus lots more port – then back into a couple more beats before finishing mid-afternoon. Very civilised. I think that 20-odd pheasants were taken though it seems more about the shooting than the pheasants. We had already had several meals of pheasant by this time and there was a lot left, some would be going out as fox food shortly.

We intended to head back to Petersfield (due south of London) to see our friends Tim and Linda. Initially we though to take the bus for cheapness, but it was to be 11.5 hours! Going in and out of London is easy, but cross-country routes aren’t. So we booked the train, only to find that a section of railway in Devon had been washed away so we were on a bus for part of the trip anyway. All train travel in the west country has been badly affected so there are many delays and cancellations. Not a big problem for us as we don’t have many time constraints. All the streams we passed were overflowing and so much of the countryside was under water.

We're now settled into a house and pet-sit in Reading for two to four months.  The house has been sold and the owner has had her offer on a new place in Weybridge accepted, so we expect we'll be moving there in a couple of months.


Postscript:

Winds brought down over 20 big trees on the estate in Cornwall. Luckily no one was out at the time. The only casualty was the Shooting Lodge which got hit by a couple of trees.


Proof that aliens were here in 1741 ... hmmm...

Thursday, 23 January 2014

Final days in Greece

Two weeks after leaving Greece we thought it way past time we wrote a final note about our time in Greece, so here it is .....

Towards the end of our stay we had access to a hire car which allowed us to see more than just the area we could cover on foot. Our first excursion was over to the other side of this peninsula to the Venetian fort of Methoni, as mentioned in a previous post.

The Arcardian Gate in the walls of Messene
Our next trip was to Ancient Messene. 
This is one of the best classical sites in Greece, just not well known due to the remoteness. The first thing we noticed was the sheer scale of the place. As a city it is protected by mountains on three sides and huge stone walls – almost 10kms of them – remnants that stretch up the sides of these mountains. Like many of these Greek sites there are remains from early times mixed with Roman, later Greek and Byzantine ruins. It has a particularly good amphitheatre and a stadium with many of the stone seats and columns still remaining.
The Stadium

The Monastery
After a couple of hours walking around the site (with, perhaps, four other tourists) we headed up to the village for lunch.  We had our first real Greek salad and seven-hours-in-the-oven pork. Melt-in-the-mouth delicious and with a great view over the ancient ruins. We then headed up the mountain behind the town on a very rough track that was a challenge for our little Daewoo rental car. At the top was an old monastery that is now closed except for once a year when the locals overnight there for a religious festival. The only inhabitants these days are goats.  They mainly inhabit the surrounding countryside, but occasionally careless people leave the gates open and the goats do what goats do, so it's a bit of a smelly place.

Frescoes inside the monastery
Frescoes on the ceiling

The windy road
Another day trip was to Sparta, home of the legendary warriors, the Spartans. Now it is a new town called Sparti, due west from Kalamata, but the road needs to cross some high mountains and very rugged land to get there. Due to the mild winter there were only traces of snow on the tops and the road was clear for us.  We likened the road to that between Arthur's Pass and Otira villages, before the viaduct was built, and repeated about eight times!  Numerous hairpins later we arrived in Sparti and found it to be more modern, neater and cleaner than the few other
Orange trees in Sparti town
towns we’ve seen in the Peloponnese. There are plenty of orange groves nearby and trucks full of loose oranges. Even the streets have orange trees which look wonderful. We did pick a couple but found them full of pips. Maybe more ornamental then. Apart from a small museum with lovely mosaics, there isn’t much else to see in town (unless you have a budget that includes lots of shopping!), but up behind is the village of Mystras. This is on the mountain where the Spartans left their newborn males to see if they were tough enough to survive the night.

Mystras
Mystras was once one of the most important towns in the region, even becoming the second home of the Byzantine emperors in the 13th and 14th centuries. It is now a World Heritage Site. Unfortunately we arrived at 3pm, closing time, so we just saw the ruins from outside.




This period included Christmas and New Year.  It was undoubtedly difficult to be so far from family, especially for Christmas.  But on Christmas Eve we were kindly included in a party for expats held at a nearby village.  We met several interesting couples there.  Many spent part of their year in Greece and the other part at 'home'.  One of the women was Kiwi, though she'd spent a good proportion of her life in Oz.  She and her husband kindly invited us to visit them at their Koroni home so we popped in for a cuppa and cakes late one sunny Friday morning.  We sat chatting on the deck of their modern apartment, with glorious views overlooking Zaga Beach and the Ionian Sea.  Jackie is an artist - you can enjoy her work here.  Their spare bedroom is Jackie's studio, but she also runs classes in the village.  Peter's an ex-plumber who, among other things, is currently learning to play an electronic keyboard - he has it sitting in front of their huge telly, which is connected to his laptop - he uses YouTube to get free lessons and sits there and plays.  We enjoyed their company immensely, are impressed by their lifestyle and are very grateful that they showed us it's possible to live very well and inexpensively in Greece.

The day finally came to be leaving Koroni. While we will miss the friendliness of the locals and the amazing winter weather, it was an isolated place without our own transport. Our coach trip back to Athens was a very Greek experience. Waiting at Harakopio for the 8am bus we saw it heading in the opposite direction five minutes before it was due to pick us up - that is, it was going to be late. When it eventually arrived it was a very slow trip up to Kalamata with the driver busy chatting to a group of friends he picked up along the way. Sometimes one arm is needed to talk with, sometimes both …

Looking out the bus window - Mycenae!
The ”express” bus all the way through to Athens decided to change a couple of times at the Kalamata bus station but we eventually got underway with a new driver. This one followed the rule of no smoking on the bus, unless you are the driver. He also specialised in racing up to the toll gate barriers and getting through just as they opened.  As we had the front passenger seats it was a very disconcerting experience!  He also reinforced the rule that stop signs and red lights are more of a guideline than an actual reason to stop …

Street art in Athens
Four days in Athens was just the right amount to take in a few more classical sites, museums and shops at a leisurely pace. It has a cheap, clean, modern and reliable metro so getting around the city is easy. There are many excavated ruins dotted around, some with archaeologists actively digging. As we found last time, there are cafes everywhere and they are full of locals. What recession? One of the highlights is the very new Acropolis Museum. It is at the base of the Acropolis and built over excavated ruins which can be seen through the glass floor in places. There are also some pointed notes that it contains all the artefacts gathered from the Acropolis, except for those stolen by the English thief Lord Elgin.
The main Archaeological Museum also has enough statues to tire one out quickly. It is certainly a vibrant city with a lot happening, from some rather nice suburbs to the more normal graffiti-covered areas like around our hotel. A convenient location but not the most desirable. 



Temple of Hephastion

View of the Acropolis

Feeding the feral cats in Athens



















Saturday, 28 December 2013

Health and Safety in Greece



A few things we’ve spotted recently have all come together as a bit of an eyebrow raiser – it’s a land of contrasts.

The Good

We saw a pre-school with several plastic ride-on toys accompanied by a line-up of red cycle helmets.  Helmets must be an EU regulation for licensed childcare premises.  Seems a bit over-the-top, but then my son and most of the people I know survived pre-school without brain damage. 

Walk into a bar on a Friday night at home and almost everyone will be drinking alcohol.  Here, people (even young people) will rarely drink alcohol before 9pm.  Young people are more likely to be sipping on a frappe.  Here (as in Italy) it’s usually the tourists who drink to excess.

Spot the two large glasses of water!
In every cafĂ©, bar or bakery where we’ve sat down to eat or drink they have always served us a large glass of water too, free of charge.












The Bad

Takeaway lunch
Helmets are compulsory here, but the law doesn’t specify that you need to wear them on your head.  It’s normal to see people zipping, or chugging, around on scooters and motorbikes without helmets.  Sometimes they'll comply with the law (if not the intent of it) by wearing it slung on their arm.  Children are often transported helmet-less too.  It looks like fun, but don’t do this at home!




It’s illegal to smoke in enclosed public places in Greece, but you wouldn’t know it.  Restaurants, cafes and bars are usually smoky, sometimes very smoky.  However, the only person we’ve seen smoking on a bus is the driver.  Cough, cough!




 In Greece (as in Italy) they do not have rubbish collection at the door – you need to take your rubbish to large bins along the road, which are emptied on a regular basis, usually.  These bins are usually ‘home’ to several feral cats, so you need to take care to not startle them.  I got a hell of a fright one day when a grotty looking moggy shot out of a bin in front of me as I off-loaded a bag of junk.  The SPCA would be running in circles here.

Imagine a paddock of olives trees partly enclosed by a fence.  Said fence consists of upright posts standing about a metre tall and connecting said posts is a twisted line of two lengths of rusted barbed wire.  Keep your children on a leash at all times!




Our hosts took us to their favourite local restaurant one evening and the owner nabs him (an architect in his previous ‘life’) to discuss the building work he’s planning to do the next day.  He was planning to remove a load-bearing wall upstairs and wanted to know if the planned supporting beam was strong enough.  Lucky we turned up that evening.  His planned beam was far too small.  He went ahead the next day but went with the concept that if double the size is required, quadruple must be better!  Our host is now concerned that the old mud-brick walls may not be able to handle the huge weight of the reinforced concrete beam.  In future we’ll try to make sure our downstairs table is not under that beam.  Looks like the EU doesn’t have a hand in building safety standards, yet!

Chainsaws are used to remove olive tree branches during the olive harvest - you can read more about it in our earlier post.  Does anyone else hear alarm bells ringing when someone mentions climbing a tree, with or without a ladder, with no protective gear, and a running chainsaw?