Viterbo

Just another town on the way ...

We continued our theme of village sightseeing by spending a few days at Viterbo, about 1 hour’s drive north of Rome, before finishing our holiday in the busy-ness of the ancient city. This was partly because Vicki had seen some amazing images of villages in this area, and secondly because that was where we found suitable Airbnb accommodation.

Grapes on the way ...

Driving down from Tuscany was glorious and I regretted having arranged to meet our Airbnb host at 3pm as we could easily have spent hours and hours more on the road, or, more precisely, standing next to the road taking pictures. The southern Tuscan scenery is full of rolling farmland with big stone farmhouses and long lines of trees flanking their driveways. The picture at the top of the previous post is a great example. Just after taking it we remarked that all it needed was a red car on the driveway. As we then drove past the entrance we saw three red Ferraris driving up it for a photo shoot!! Needless to say there was nowhere for us to stop …

Viterbo has a nice old walled centre surrounded by a larger modern town. Our apartment was in a newish block just a short walk away from an entrance gateway to the old town and turned out to be beautiful and modern inside. The best accommodation we have had to date.

Only one way in ...

Our first day trip was to Civita di Bagnoregio. Though 2,500 years old its population dwindled to just 6 a few years ago as bits of the town keep falling off due to erosion, though personally I think it is more to do with having to carry your shopping up the hill. It is now an island reached only by the long toll bridge (3 euros for entry and we were all puffing by the time we got to the town). Inside it is quaint and very neat with nothing modern, if you excuse the numerous cafes. Tourism is its only chance of survival.

Momentarily tourist-free

Starting the walk

Gelati on the beach

Driving down to Viterbo we passed the largest volcanic lake in Europe, Lago di Bolsena.  As it looked so pretty from the hills as you drive past we decided to return. The town of Bolsena is built on the lakeside with a small harbour and a good swimming beach. It has some very upmarket villas that we imagine are owned by wealthy Romans. On a warm day we sat beside the beach at a near-empty restaurant drinking cappuccinos and eating gelato, watching the fishermen, and not wanting to leave. A delightful spot though I imagine on a hot summer 

weekend it would be anything but.

Yet another picturesque village on our itinerary for the day. Vitorchiano is spectacular and not overly touristy. We walked up to the tourist viewing point overlooking the town (why are there no footpaths on these narrow roads?) for the obligatory snaps and I was surprised to find in the carpark the only Easter Island statue outside of Easter Island! At least the placard claimed that was the case. Outside of the main gate into the town were three gentlemen who took a shine to Julie (or was it the other way around?), especially when she asked for their photograph and was invited to sit with them. Inside the town was tourist-free with just the friendly locals out for their evening walk.

Irresistible?

Unexpected

As the last afternoon in Viterbo looked a bit dodgy weather-wise we decided not to venture too far. Indeed we were treated to a spectacular thunderstorm later that evening. We had read about the various hot springs in the area, well-known to the Romans. Some may well now be inside posh spas but the three that we found were very basic and un-signposted.  The first was in a field past a Roman ruin down a dusty gravel road and was fenced off with a carpark that deteriorated into an area full of campervans, possibly full of Germans. We had a wander around the various pools (not too hot) and there were a few people in them. Five euros admission gave access to the 'portacabin' change rooms and a toilet. We declined the offer and went in search of more. The next two we found were in fields next to an airforce base. Both were free but had no facilities at all, just a few Italians lounging in the warmer pools. Both had a central fenced-off area where the water was bubbling to the surface which was then channeled into a race that filled the various pools. Not all of them looked clean. Once again we declined the experience.

As we departed Viterbo to drive to Rome we said goodbye to our lovely host Elena. She presented each of us with gifts: handmade (by her mum) crocheted cacti in terracotta pots. Hard to know what to say.